Medellín: Exploring a Transformed City
We spent 11 days in Medellín, planning to meet up with family later in the month, but in Cartagena. This visit came right after a quick trip back to the U.S., and Medellín gave us a perfect mix of culture, history, and transformation to explore.
Medellín is Colombia’s second-largest city, nestled in the Aburrá Valley in the Andes Mountains.
Its higher altitude brings cool weather and occasional rain, offering a refreshing break from Colombia’s tropical heat.
Founded on November 2, 1616, by Spanish colonists, the city didn’t gain prominence until the 19th century.
Most people recognize Medellín for its dark chapter in the 1980s and 1990s, when Pablo Escobar’s cartel dominated the city, making it infamous for violence and drug trafficking.
After Escobar’s death in 1993, Medellín began to recover. The Colombian government launched aggressive efforts to reduce crime and rebuild the city, setting the stage for its remarkable transformation.
Our guide shared vivid memories of that turning point. One morning, the sound of helicopters and gunfire shattered the usual quiet.
Their family huddled inside their home, unsure of what was happening. After days of tension, silence finally returned.
When they cautiously stepped outside, they realized the cartel and its associated gangs had been eradicated.
The neighborhood erupted in celebrations, and Medellín began its journey of renewal.
One striking example of this transformation is Comuna 13, a neighborhood once dominated by violence. Today, it’s renowned for its vibrant street art. Guided tours take visitors through areas where Escobar’s influence once loomed, now reimagined with colorful murals symbolizing freedom and resilience.
The vibrant energy and creativity of Comuna 13 show just how far the city has come from its troubled past.
While in Medellín, Rick went on several runs around the city, capturing photos of cathedrals that caught his eye.
He also tackled the Three Crosses hike, a trail up the mountain visible from our balcony.
It’s a popular and safe route if you stick to the main path, though online advice warns against wandering into the wooded areas.
At the top of the hike is an outdoor gym. It was a perfect place for Rick to work on his upper body strength.
During his hike, Rick met a young woman hoping to descend via an alternate route. She asked him to accompany her for safety, and they enjoyed the journey down together.
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One day, we ventured into the city center. Our Uber driver kindly advised us to be cautious with our phones when taking photos and to avoid suspicious alleys.
We appreciated the heads-up and spent the day exploring. I even found a place to get my nails done, which added a nice little touch of self-care to the outing.
While wandering, we discovered several fascinating sculptures by Fernando Botero, a Colombian artist known for his unique, exaggerated style. His statues, which some might call Rubenesque, add an intriguing flair to the cityscape and celebrate Colombian culture.
Though our time in Medellín was short, we left impressed by the city’s resilience and transformation. What was once a hub of danger and fear has become a vibrant, welcoming destination for travelers. Medellín’s story is one of redemption, and we’re grateful to have experienced its beauty and spirit firsthand.
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That was super interesting. This part of history was completely new to me. The transformation that took place there should give hope to other places plagued by crime if they have a willing and capable government. Thanks for sharing, I loved it.