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Playa del Carmen – Just us in Mexico

After the wonderful time we spent with my son Kyle and Sunny in Oaxaca, we continued our journey to Playa del Carmen.

We planned on only being here for 4 nights, as were transitioning from our “vacation mode” to our “living mode”.

However, we ended up quite busy with our day trip to the ruins.

We were able to get some good R & R in however.

Why?

Because we were eagerly looking forward to the upcoming week. We wanted to be refreshed for time with Rick’s sister Sharon and family in Cozumel!!!

We were blessed to have stumbled upon a charming Airbnb just a block away from the ocean on 5th Avenue. This spot by the ocean was buzzing with tourists, offering everything from clothing to delectable food (tacos) and exotic fruit drinks, all with easy access to the beach.

The lively atmosphere here was quite a departure from the tranquil Oaxaca. We spent a few days leisurely strolling around, soaking up the sun on the beach, and enjoying a bit of people-watching.

Playa del Carmen sits on Mexico’s eastern coast, in Quintana Roo, part of the Yucatan Peninsula overlooking the Caribbean Sea. It’s also conveniently close to Cozumel, just a short ferry ride away. Playa del Carmen caters to water enthusiasts, offering a variety of activities such as snorkeling and scuba diving. Moreover, it’s conveniently situated near several archaeological sites and other historical and unique attractions, including the region’s numerous natural cenotes.

One of the primary reasons we opted for Playa del Carmen was the opportunity to explore Chichen Itza, another remarkable archaeological site. Our appetite for exploring ancient ruins remained unsatiated, especially after immersing ourselves in Dr. Edwin Barnhardt’s captivating audio book/Great Course, “Maya to Aztec: Ancient Mesoamerica Revealed” (available on Audible here), which vividly brought Mesoamerican history to life. It was during our days traveling full time in our beloved RV across the U.S. that we delved deep into the fascinating narratives of ancient civilizations.

We chose an all-day tour that encompassed stops at two ruins, Coba and Chichen Itza, followed by a refreshing dip in a cenote to conclude the day.


As is customary with most (Mexican?) tours, we had an unscheduled stop for the usual assortment of traditional “tourist wares.” While it’s intriguing to browse through the vibrant displays, collecting more souvenirs isn’t something we relish.

After all, when you’re on the road full-time like us, there’s little space for accumulating more “stuff.” We’re limited to two suitcases each! Pretty crazy, right?


Coba

Our first ruin we visited was at Coba. It is located approximately 65 miles west of Playa del Carmen in the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.

It is a Mayan city that thrived from 600 to 900 AD and it played a pivotal role in the region’s history and trade networks.  

Covering approximately 30 square miles, Coba ranks among the largest Mayan ruins in the region. This is why we rode a bicycle to be able to quickly get to many of the sites.

Coba showcases well-preserved structures of pyramids, ball courts, and numerous residential and ceremonial buildings. You could easily spend all day here to see all the sites.

Notably, Coba is distinguished by its abundance of stelae, intricately carved stone slabs adorned with glyphs and artwork that offer a glimpse into the city’s rich historical and cultural legacy.

Coba stands out for its extensive network of sacbes, ancient raised roads that connected various architectural groups within the city, facilitating trade and communication.

The towering “Nohoch Mul” pyramid, standing at approximately 137 feet is quite impressive. It is one of the tallest pyramids in the Yucatan Peninsula.

Its remarkable construction showcases the advanced engineering skills of the ancient Maya civilization. This monumental pyramid served as a significant ceremonial center within the Coba community.

Its imposing presence and intricate design had spiritual importance and historical significance for the ancient civilization’s architectural achievements and religious beliefs.


Chichen Itza

Located approximately 120 miles west of Playa del Carmen, Chichen Itza, a bustling pre-Columbian city, wielded significant political and economic influence within the Maya civilization. Its prime position facilitated robust trade, fostering a vibrant exchange of goods and ideas among diverse Mayan communities. With its strategic control of pivotal trade routes, Chichen Itza thrived as a vital hub for commerce in the Yucatan Peninsula.

Politically, the city played a central role in the Maya political landscape, boasting considerable authority over neighboring city-states. Ruled by a potent elite class, Chichen Itza maintained a sophisticated governance system characterized by intricate hierarchies and administrative structures.

This dominance enabled the city to exert its sway over extensive territories, cementing its stature as a leading force in the realm of the ancient Maya

Chichen Itza’s architectural marvels, exemplified by the Temple of Kukulkan, showcased the Maya’s profound comprehension of mathematics and astronomy. The precise alignment of the pyramid’s staircase with the sun during the equinoxes underscored the Maya’s adept use of celestial knowledge in their religious ceremonies.

The city’s observatory, El Caracol, served as a vital instrument for monitoring celestial events and shaping their intricate calendar system, further illustrating their profound grasp of astronomical principles.

Jaguars held significant cultural and symbolic importance in the ancient Mayan civilization. The jaguar, known for its strength, agility, and elusive nature, was revered as a powerful and mystical creature, often associated with royalty, strength, and divinity in Mayan cosmology. You can see the jaguar representation on the top of the stairs in these two buildings below.

At Chichen Itza, representations of jaguars can be found in various forms, including stone carvings, sculptures, and mural paintings, highlighting their revered status in Mayan religious and cultural practices. Depictions of jaguars were often linked to deities and were believed to possess supernatural powers, serving as guardians of the underworld and protectors of sacred spaces.

Among its remarkable structures, the El Castillo pyramid stands out as an architectural masterpiece, celebrated for its precise alignment with the equinoxes, casting captivating shadows on its staircase during these celestial occurrences. At sunset, the play of light creates an illusion of fiery serpents descending along the edges of the pyramid.

Additionally, Chichen Itza boasts one of the largest and best-preserved ball courts of the ancient Maya, a site that continues to intrigue historians, who grapple with unraveling its precise rules and cultural significance.

The complex also includes a sacred cenote, the Cenote Sagrado, believed to have served as a site for sacred rituals and offerings, adding a layer of spiritual significance to this ancient marvel.

Notably, Chichen Itza has earned the esteemed title of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been rightfully recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Archaeological evidence suggests that Coba and Chichen Itza, as contemporaneous Mayan cities, were connected through robust trade networks that facilitated the exchange of various commodities such as ceramics and obsidian.

This vibrant trade relationship contributed to the economic prosperity of both cities and fostered cultural exchanges, as evidenced by the similarities in architectural styles, artistic motifs, and religious symbolism found in both locations.


Cenote

As the day neared its end, we made our final stop at a cenote, which turned out to be a splendid way to conclude our adventure. A cenote, characterized by its formation from the collapse of limestone bedrock, exposes the underlying groundwater. These geological wonders are abundant in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula and often connect to an extensive network of subterranean rivers and caves.

Cenotes display diverse shapes and sizes, ranging from expansive open water pools to cave-like structures with narrow entrances. Furthermore, these natural marvels hold significant cultural and historical importance for the Mayan civilization, revered as sacred sites and vital water sources for the local communities.

The cenote we explored was a spacious circular sunken cave, featuring a staircase leading down to the water and a platform for those daring enough to take the leap.

I must admit, the courage to dive from the top platform eluded me, yet Rick, my intrepid companion, fearlessly embraced the exhilarating plunge! You can tell by his wide flung out arms and legs that he has no fear!

Gazing upwards from the water’s embrace, the lush foliage surrounding the cave’s entrance provided a striking green contrast against the enigmatic depths below. The hanging vines appeared sturdy enough to support a swinging gorilla, adding a touch of whimsical charm to the surreal ambiance.

Equipped with flotation devices, we relished the tranquility of floating in the water, observing the thrill-seekers take their daring jumps from the platform. The refreshing waters enveloped us, washing away the grime, dust, and residual heat from the day’s exploration, leaving us rejuvenated and at peace.


Koba, Chichen Itza, & a Cenote

We really enjoyed our time in Playa del Carmen. It was fascinating to see up close and personal the actual places that we had studied earlier. The firsthand encounter with history’s tangible remnants made us more aware of what we were seeing and helped us understand how important it is to learn about these ancient Kcivilizations and how they shape the world we see today.

We anticipated having a fun full day with our tour guide.  We were excited to see these ruins and our expectation was high.  However, something unexpected occurred.  This was the first time we were disappointed in a tour guide.  We have learned from past experience that knowledgeable tour guides are rewarding and worth the money and tips for their invaluable experience and knowledge of their specific and detailed subject matter.  Today was not one of those experiences.  

We booked our guide online with a reputable service.  We are always careful to select guides that are conversant in English.  Unfortunately, this guy wasn’t.  Our tour guide was a friendly and chatty fellow.  The combination of poor English and endless inane chatter however quickly became tiring. 

The first ruin site we visited was Coba.  We were instructed that we would only have 2 hours to explore this site. We all stood around our guide standing at the first signage of the site. We all took out our cameras and were ready for some wonderful visuals. Yes, it is helpful to see the layout of the ruins and get a bit of top high-level information regarding the site.  However, 15 minutes later, we are still standing at the entrance, in front of the sign.  **Sigh**

We finally move beyond the initial sign; the group again pulls out the cameras. Our guide leads us to a shady area under some trees and starts talking again. We notice there is a large pyramid just beyond our full view in our peripheral – this time he is asking for volunteers, describing the stairs which we can see are quite large. Now our guide is taking our youthful volunteer and standing him against another taller volunteer – yes, we can see that there is a disparity of height. Umm, can we please see actual ruins? Now our guide is explaining to us that the Mayan’s were short people and the reason that they made large pyramids with large steps was to be intimidating to their enemies.  (One for the sophomoric logic) ***Sigh***

While he talks on and on, we all get antsy to actually view the large pyramid structure still in our peripheral vision.  Some of us slyly step a way to take pictures of the pyramid and creep back to the group, our guide talking on and on, never seeming to notice.  Our guide continues to drone on and on. The minutes keep ticking on. ***Sigh***

Finally, we move onto the pyramid, and we quickly take our pictures relieved that we actually are going to see the ruins, rather than talk about them.

As we moved to the next site, we saw the ruins of what looked like to be some kind of housing. There we stood for the next 30 minutes while the guide had “volunteers” lay down in the small bed area – just to let us know that these areas were really small. Wow dude, I would never would have guessed that on my own. Small spaces actually are small. Great info ***sigh***

We eventually moved on to another building, this time we were made to listen to our guide describe the action of bartering. It was SO painful! ***Sigh***
You should see how Rick mimics this, it’s a hoot!

The short story is that we had 20 minutes on our own to check out the majority of the ruins at Coba. Which meant all we could do was get a fast tuk tuk bike ride throughout the site. Needless to say, we were not happy campers!

When we arrived at Chichen Itza, we told our guide (as he started his 15-minute ramble at the first sign), we were going to go explore on our own. He wasn’t happy about it, but we were not going to waste any more time on his 5th grade rambling, – Finally!

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3 Comments

  1. Wow! Such interesting scenery, and great history, and a wonderful place to relax and also to have adventures!

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