Jaguars & More in the Pantanal!

Here it is—the adventure we’ve been planning for months. We’ve finally arrived at the Pantanal in Brazil, a place where wild jaguars and other exotic animals roam freely. Sure, the mosquitoes were relentless, and the heat was stifling, but the payoff? The Jaguars!

What exactly is the Pantanal? It’s the world’s largest tropical wetland, covering an area of about 75,000 square miles. Most of it lies within the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, with extensions into parts of Bolivia and Paraguay. This region experiences seasonal wetness, flooding during the rainy season (November to March), and drying up somewhat during the dry season (April to September). This cycle creates a unique ecosystem that supports an incredible array of plant and animal species, especially giant species.

The Pantanal is a haven for wildlife—hyacinth macaws, capybaras, and so many other creatures were found along with those we mentioned earlier. Massive numbers of bird species feast there part-time or year-round.  And let’s not forget about the fascinating plants, such as giant water lilies, ipê trees, and Pantanal bamboo. It’s a favored destination for tourists, particularly those passionate about birdwatching and observing wildlife.

Rick initiated inquiries with several travel agencies to ascertain costs, timing, and availability. Gradually, we sifted through responses to pinpoint the best agency to organize our adventure. We settled on the Pantanal Nature Agency and stayed at Jaguar Camp.

Our broken English/Spanish conversation, accompanied by animated hand gestures, made for a great flight. Soon, our mobile phones were out, and we exchanged family and travel pictures. Meeting fellow Christians while traveling is always heartwarming, and connecting with SDA brothers and sisters is a glimpse of family in heaven.

Our driver picked us up at the hotel, marking the start of our adventure. The drive to the Pantanal took around 4 hours, with the last half on the Transpantaneira Highway—the heart of the journey. The Transpantaneira Highway stretches 680 miles, crossing through the Pantanal. Along this route, we paused to admire ipê trees, caimans, greater rhea, and the stunning jabiru stork.

We got out for Rick to follow an armadillo into the bush and to look at a giant false water cobra and a giant tegu.  We weren’t alone on the road; we encountered open tour buses and families, all sharing the same goal—to witness exotic wildlife. We saw fishermen out catching fish among all this and even some friendly “Guachos” or cowboys.

Upon reaching Jaguar Camp, we enjoyed a delightful meal before embarking on our first wildlife quest on the waterways. Our guides, Gustavo and Bruno, greeted us. Gustavo, a biologist, and naturalist, radiated a passion for animals and shared invaluable knowledge. Bruno, the communicator who facilitated our inquiries months ago, brought his upbeat attitude and helpfulness to our boat tours. Witnessing these young men’s dedication to animal conservation was inspiring.

The tours were on aluminum fishing boats with outboard motors. The canopy provided welcome relief from the scorching sun part of the time during our hours on the river. Our time on the water was well-spent; we encountered a total of 9 different jaguars. Each voyage out into the rivers and canals yielded at least one jaguar sighting. We learned from Gustavo and Bruno that individual jaguars are identified by unique spots around their faces and bodies.  We watched giant river otters and numerous species of birds catching the incredibly numerous fish.  Marta and a boy in a boat next to us fished and caught two piranha and several other fish.  We saw an anaconda nestled in a little hole in the river bank and a huge Brazilian porcupine up in a tree.

Once when we were out on the boat watching a jaguar on shore, many miles from camp, the steering cable broke.  The tour company owner was with us.  Quietly trying to keep us, their only passengers, unworried, the boat driver started paddling us back toward the bigger channel while the owner calmly but urgently called on the radio for parts or a replacement boat.  Rick climbed to the back to see what was up.  The cable merely needed to be disconnected from the engine (14 mm bolt) to allow steering to resume.  They didn’t have tools, but Rick pulled out his Leatherman, and by the time the jaguar had gone back into the jungle they had the engine free, running, and steering by a tied-on oar handle!

Initially, we had these remarkable guides to ourselves, enabling us to spend entire days on the river, avoiding the need to return to camp for lunch. Yes, the heat was intense, but we managed to enjoy a swim near one of the little beaches (the caiman, piranha, anaconda, and candiru wisely stayed away). As our days at Jaguar Camp progressed, other families joined us. This added a new dynamic as we witnessed the excitement of a family with young children sharing our appreciation for wildlife viewing.

This 5-day 4-night tour was an absolute delight! We wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone seeking a chance to witness incredible wild animals that are rarely seen elsewhere.

Oh yes, Jaguars!